After the controversial Hedi Slimane’s runaway show in Paris last Monday, I could say: “Thank god my grandma (who was a tailor) isn’t alive anymore”…I could also say “I love the California style, but why should I buy it from Saint Laurent?”, or I could say “Hey, it’s just fashion…sometimes designers like to provoke and they can afford to go nuts”…I could continue with “Finally something that critics can really scratch their heads over trying to figure out what’s the story….”
One question is: will the returning designer (he was at YSL as men’s rtw director and creative director after from 96 to 2001) bring to the French Maison significant sales growth? (Like when he was partially responsible for Dior Couture business 40% increase in 2002). But does he really care to prove anything to anyone at this point?
They are clearly letting him play in the sand-box right now…As much as I respect him for his background in photography and for what he has done in the past, I simply think the collection looks hideous…nothing from the 90’s grunge wardrobe seems re-interpreted neither leather speaks quality…you would expect him coming out at the end and say ” okay guys I was just kidding…”
It looks to me like a bunch of clothes taken from the pile of stuff thrown on the couch of my 18 year old cousin’s bedroom, who really plays in a couple of bands on the waves of New York city garage rock scene…although as casual as he looks his clothes are not cheap or unbranded, nor is the Prada fragrance I once spotted on his shelve…So perhaps a certain type of young girl will buy something from this collection…
But why Slimane’s going after this costumer under the name of SL is not given us to know for now, as he apparently doesn’t release any statements.
I already said fashion isn’t about fashion anymore. It’s obvious that in over 20 years fashion has turned into some sort of intricate mix of marketing and merchandising rules, millions of money in sales campaign and public&media relation connections…but the almost absolute absence of newness it’s kind of disappointing.
In that sense thanks to Phoebe Philo Celine still has a leading spot in the market, and does speak most of times about quality and style…a certain kind that’s clearly a reflection of HER.
So is SL a result of what Hedi Slimane has become living in LA?
Truth is Yves Saint Laurent is long gone, and after him so is my dearest Tom Ford….
“Fashions fade, style is eternal.” (Yves Saint-Laurent)